The Evolution US Open | LUX-HANDBAGS

There are certain bags that seem to announce their destination before their owner even takes a step. A straw tote whispers of sandy beaches, a glittering minaudière hints at late-night cocktails, and a monogrammed canvas carryall suggests a weekend in the Hamptons. The tennis bag once belonged to this legible category: pristine white, perhaps with green or navy trim, designed to hold a racket and a can of balls. It was as much a symbol of leisure as it was a practical accessory.

The Disappearing Tennis Bag at the US Open

But at this year's US Open, a curious shift has occurred. The traditional tennis bag has all but vanished from the stands, replaced by an array of luxury handbags that have little to do with the sport. Spectators now arrive carrying Chanel Classic Flaps, Louis Vuitton Speedy bags, Gucci top handles, and Fendi Baguettes—the same bags they might take to a dinner in Manhattan. Even celebrities have embraced this trend; Kaia Gerber was spotted at an exhibition match with a tiger-print Fendi Baguette woven from raffia and adorned with over 22,000 beads. While the material nods to tennis's aesthetic, the bag itself is hardly suited for a quick match.

This shift raises a compelling question: Is there such a thing as a “tennis bag” anymore, or has the category simply expanded to include any bag that passes through the gates of Arthur Ashe Stadium? The answer, it seems, lies in the evolution of tenniscore itself.

Tenniscore Was Never Really About Tennis

For several summers, tenniscore dominated fashion with its pleated skirts, cable-knit sweaters, and pristine white sneakers. It was an aesthetic that could be assembled without ever stepping onto a court. Zendaya's press tour for Challengers in 2024 pushed this fantasy to its peak, turning anything white or green into a tennis reference. Even Loewe got in on the act, placing tennis balls on stiletto heels.

The bags of this trend followed suit: woven totes evoked afternoons at the country club, small white shoulder bags looked crisp enough for the grass courts, and sporty crossbodies hinted at an active lifestyle—even if the only exercise involved lifting a cocktail. These bags were never meant to be functional tennis accessories; they were symbols of a social world associated with the sport.

The Problem with a Real Tennis Bag

In reality, a true tennis bag is far from romantic. It is large, technical, and designed to accommodate rackets, damp towels, and perhaps a snack. It belongs to the same category as ski boot bags or golf club covers—useful but hardly chic. Tenniscore succeeded by separating the style from the equipment, but that separation has become so complete that the aesthetic now barely references tennis at all.

This evolution is particularly evident at the US Open, which has always been the most fashion-forward of the Grand Slams. Unlike Wimbledon's strict traditions or Roland-Garros's Parisian elegance, the US Open offers night matches, celebrity sightings, and a vibrant atmosphere that encourages self-expression. It has become a late-summer fashion convention where the bags are as important as the tennis.

At the US Open, the It Bag Wins

The logical conclusion of this trend is the dominance of the “It” bag. Why carry a bag that merely coordinates with tennis when you can carry the bag you most want to be seen with? Courtside sightings this season have included a Gucci Dionysus Bamboo top handle, a Coach Nolita, a Fendi Mon Tresor, a Louis Vuitton NéoNoé, and the ever-present Chanel Flap. These bags share little stylistically—some are structured, others slouchy, some logo-heavy, others discreet—but they all share one trait: desirability.

Tenniscore, like many trends before it, is expanding until it ceases to mean anything. We've seen this with “quiet luxury,” which now describes any beige object over 0, and “coastal grandmother,” which applies to anyone wearing linen near water. Once a trend becomes a marketing language, its boundaries blur. It stops describing a coherent look and instead evokes a mood—or, less charitably, a shopping prompt.

Now, carrying a raffia tote is tenniscore, a white mini bag is tenniscore, and even a tiger-striped Fendi Baguette with a black dress can be deemed “anti-tenniscore,” which somehow still keeps it within the tennis conversation. Fashion has created a system where following the trend is tenniscore, but rejecting it is also tenniscore. The only way to lose is to arrive without a bag—a practical impossibility when you need your phone, ID, and perhaps a lipstick.

So, What Actually Counts as a Tennis Bag?

Perhaps the disappearance of the traditional tennis bag says something positive about the US Open. The tournament has become so culturally significant that it generates its own dress code without imposing a uniform. Simply being there provides all the context needed; the venue does the aesthetic work. A Chanel Flap at the grocery store is just a Chanel Flap, but a Chanel Flap at Arthur Ashe is courtside style.

So, is there still such a thing as a tennis bag? Technically, yes—professional players still carry them, and anyone attempting to transport three rackets would be ill-advised to rely on a Fendi Baguette. But for spectators, the category has effectively collapsed. The modern tennis bag need not be white, woven, sporty, practical, or even large enough to hold a tennis ball. It only needs to accompany its owner to Flushing Meadows and look good resting on a stadium seat.

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